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It’s best to use epoxy in this situation as any solvent may destroy the outside acrylic sealer.
No. Epoxy is brittle and can only be cut with diamond blades.
Wet sand the epoxy, allow it to dry and apply 8-10 coats of CR-520 Floor Finish. Be sure to reference all TDS and MSDS sheets. The floor will look good.
You need to use RAC stain. RAC stain is a reactive acid chemical stain that molecularly bonds with the salts and minerals of the concrete, chemically and molecularly changing the concrete to produce the color. RAC stain is not just “on” the concrete, RAC stain “IS” the concrete.
You didn’t do anything wrong. Just like painting a wall, sometimes you are required to apply more than one coat. Simply spray another coat of stain.
The color is there, you washed off residue. Apply another coat of RAC stain, let it sit for 4 hours, then wash and neutralize. The first RAC stain coat opened the pores in the concrete.
No. The use of CR-607 Olive Mist, CR-608 Azure Sky, CR-609 Mossy Oak and CR-810 Summer Wheat on concrete which has no vapor barrier underneath (typically exterior concrete slabs) has the risk of partially or completely turning black when excessive amounts of moisture migrate from underneath the slab to the top surface.
Never use tape to mask off any stained concrete floor, even if it is sealed, as the tape could pull up the stain and sealer with it when you peel up the tape. It’s best to staple sheet plastic to the floor plate of the room you’re working in (assuming it’s an unfinished room). Using tape directly on a stained floor is just too risky. Judy wrote an article about this on the Groov-E-News blog, and you can read that article here.
Adhesive from the tape bonded with the sealer and stain, so that when the tape was pulled up the stain and sealer was bound to come up too. Never apply tape to a floor that has been stained and sealed. You must re-apply the stain and sealer to the areas affected.
The floor was improperly prepared before the stain was applied, leaving residue on the floor. When the residue came off the floor, it took the stain and sealer with it. You need to properly clean and prepare the floor, and re-apply stain and sealer.
Bubbles on an acrylic sealed surface are not uncommon and are caused when sealer soaks into the pores of the concrete. As the top coat dries, the sealer in the pores out-gases, creating the bubbles. The solution is to apply another coat of sealer which will re-emulsify the bubbles, and since there are now no pores to fill, the second coat should not bubble.
The best sealer for paving stones is CR-560 Outside Acrylic, but you will need to apply multiple coats to make them shine since paving stones are very porous.
The floor finish hasn’t dried completely. Give it more time to dry before you put on a second coat.
Coverage per 50 lb bucket.
- Micro-topping application – 1/32″ thickness using Magic Trowel or Squeegee – 205sf. Smooth coat application – 1/16″ thickness using a Magic Trowel, Squeegee or Fresno – 102sf.
- Heavy coat application – 1/8″ thickness using a Magic Trowel, Squeegee or Pool Trowel – 51sf
Mantello can be applied using a Magic Trowel, fresno, hopper gun, pool trowel or margin trowel.
Fill all holes deeper than 1/16″ with coarse blend Mantello Resurfacer prior to coating the entire floor. Holes must be free of contaminants prior to filling. Allow to cure before proceeding.
The surface of the concrete must be opened so the Mantello Resurfacer can bond properly. A tight-troweled surface should be the texture of 220 grit sandpaper or rougher. This texture can be attained by using the Blastin’ Betty blasting tool, or using Surface Prep & Etch.
Mantello can be applied from 1/32” to 1/8”. Edges can be feathered.
The number of coats is optional according to end result desired.
Mantello Resurfacer should be applied when winds are calm since moving air may cause the surface to dry prematurely and crack. The surface and ambient temperatures should be between 50º and 90º.
Use gray if you want the surface to look like standard concrete. Use white if you want a brightly colored surface.
The thickness of the application and the temperature and humidity will affect the cure rate. The surface will exhibit uniform appearance when dry. Approximate dry times: 12 hours to re-coat, 24 hours to engrave or stain.
All contaminants, including paint and sealer, must be removed before using Mantello Resurfacer. See our Mantello Resurfacer Technical Data Sheet for proper removal methods.
Mantello Resurfacer is for use on stable concrete. All existing control joints must be honored. If they are filled with Mantello Resurfacer, they must be re-cut as soon as the coating has cured. Existing and moving cracks should be structurally repaired, or honored since they will cause the Mantello Resurfacer to crack.
Mantello is well-suited to outdoor applications. Be certain the surface to which it will be applied is properly prepared. We highly recommend sealing Mantello Resurfacer using Concrete Resurrection CR-560 Outdoor Acrylic Sealer. A non-skid additive may be added for safety.
Mantello Resurfacer performs well around swimming pools when properly applied AND sealed with two coats of CR-560 Outdoor Acrylic Sealer. A non-skid additive should be broadcast on the surface prior to spraying on the final coat of sealer.
Mantello Resurfacer was developed for use on bare concrete.
Yes. Be sure to dilute the RAC stain with a minimum of 6 parts water to 1 part stain. The surface will blacken if the stain isn’t properly diluted.
Yes. WRC stain works well on Mantello Resurfacer, but it must be applied with an HVLP sprayer.
Mantello Resurfacer will stain and tire mark just like any concrete surface. To avoid these problems, properly seal the Mantello Resurfacer with the correct Concrete Resurrection sealer.
The energy saved by not tearing out and disposing of old concrete makes Mantello Resurfacer environmentally friendly. If waste water created during surface prep is properly disposed of, there are no negative effects on the environment.