This is a continuation (Part 5) of an introduction to the Super Compact– including it’s capabilities.
This is part 10 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.
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These are long bed cuts. Long bed cuts may be straight linear cuts, or they may be circular, or arched. Like a bow or an arch. Soldier courses are bricks that are placed at right angles from the main field courses of bricks. Soldier courses are placed in the circular brick pattern to keep the field bricks from growing too long or too short. They break up the pattern and they look good.
These are head cuts. Head cuts begin and end between long bed cuts. Head cuts might also be called radial cuts if they are radiating from the center of a circle or an arch.
Tools you will need: hammer drill, concrete anchoring kit, super compact, center pivot, connecting bar, connecting bar stabilizer, primary connecting bar, tape measure, soap stone, framing square.
Determine where the center pivot is to be located for a circular pattern. Draw a crosshair on the floor at the point where you wish to mount the center pivot. Align the four corners of the center pivot on the lines. Using the hammer drill and the screws from the concrete anchoring kit, attach the center pivot to the slab.
Drill the hole more than deep enough for the screws. If possible, drill all the way through the slab. Remove the dust from the hole by running the drill bit in and out of the hole several times. Set the screws down tight to the base plate.
To prevent the screws from breaking or the heads from stripping, put a lot of downward pressure on the screw and click the drill trigger to gently set the screw. If the screw binds, back it out and ream the dust from the hole. If the hole strips and is unable to hold the screw, insert a sliver of wood or a Q tip in the hole. Two screws, set opposite of each other, are usually sufficient to hold the center pivot. If it becomes necessary to temporarily remove the center pivot, mark the base to indicate the direction it is pointing. When the pivot is accurately repositioned, the engraver will cut exactly where you left off.
Rotate the center pivot so that the T pin hole is located closest to the engraver. Insert the primary connecting bar into the carriage. Attach the engraver to the primary connecting bar. Lift the connecting bar stabilizer wheels about one eighth of an inch off the concrete and then tighten the star knob. Install the clamp block.
Insert the T pin into the center pivot and through the indexing hole in the primary connecting bar for the smallest possible circle desired. Snug the star knob. The center pivot’s star knob secures and tightens the connecting bar to the center pivot. If the star knob is loose, a sloppy, ugly line will occur.
Turn the engraver on, press down on the handle bar to firmly engage the blade with the concrete, and push forward. To move out to the next circle, remove the indexing pin, release the star knob, and move the engraver out. Locate the next indexing hole, insert the pin, snug the star knob, cut the next circle.
As needed, add connecting bars to extend the reach of the super compact. Secure the connecting bar using the specifically designed connecting bar screws. Tighten the screws snugly to prevent a loose connection, which can cause ugly lines. Locate the next indexing hole, insert the pin, snug the star knob, cut the next circle.
To purchase the complete DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving – The Basics, call 1-800-884-2114, or purchase on-line at Concrete Stain & Supply.