Category Archives: Video Tips

Video tips on how easy it is for you to be a professional concrete engraver.

KaleidoCrete Tools Introduction

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This is an introduction to the KaleidoCrete System.

In this video, you are introduced to the system and the tools that comprise it: the Shark, the Barracuda & the Wasp.

This is part 18 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

The Kaleidocrete System is an innovative concrete engraving system which allows you to reproduce nearly any design in any scale in existing concrete.

You or your customer’s imagination is the only limit to what can be created with the Kaleidocrete System.

As an example, you can easily reproduce corporate logos, numbers, or custom design graphics.

Kaleidocrete templates are manufactured for the design you want to reproduce.

The templates are constructed from one half inch thick durable plastic panels.

Using templates as patterns to create exacting designs, the Shark, Barracuda, and Wasp tools rapidly peck at the concrete surface, chipping away until you reach the desired depth.

Kaleidocrete tools are air powered and require a compressor that will maintain 12 CFM at 90 PSI.

During this segment, we will be demonstrating the Shark, the Barracuda, the Wasp, and various Kaleidocrete template sets.

The Kaleidocrete system tools have specific purposes. The Shark has 64 impact cutting teeth and is used for engraving designs that have large open areas greater than three eighths of an inch. The Barracuda has 29 impact cutting teeth and is used for engraving areas where the template space is under three eights of an inch. The Wasp, is used for fine detail engraving, free handwork, and is efficient in design, cleanup and touchup.

All Engrave A Crete tools are designed with safety as the number one priority. Just like any other tool, it is essential that you use and wear all the appropriate safety equipment including by not limited to eye, ear, and respiratory protection. When making adjustments or changing components of the engraving equipment, you must disconnect and unplug the tool from the power source.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.

Decorative Concrete Engraving | Tips, Tricks & Correcting Mistakes

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This is a continuation (Part 12) of an introduction to the Super Compact — including it’s capabilities.

In this video, you learn various tips and tricks for correcting mistakes and cleaning up your designs.

This is part 17 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

To fix a slight over cut, simply dab on stain to conceal it. For longer over-cuts, use a wasp to dish out the over cut. Removing the sharp edges of the over-cut makes a softer, less noticeable appearance. Touch up the over-cut with concrete stain.

It is always better to have an undercut than an over-cut. Undercuts can be easily fixed. To finish up an undercut, a Wasp, or a Barracuda, and touch up template work well.

If a cut was made in error, there are several options. Do nothing. Sometimes, in large areas, it blends in and goes unnoticed. Make more cuts. Create a tie bond for the entire brick course.

Always use a ground fault circuit interrupter. Use a 10/3 extension cord to get the most power to your equipment. Motors will run cooler, last longer, be more powerful. Circuit breakers will not be overloaded as easily, and you’ll get the job done faster. Make operations easier by adding on extra sections of vacuum hose. 12 to 20 feet or more is really nice. Also, install a Gore Tex CleanStream Filter on the vacuum for getter operation.

Be certain to check the secondary depth limiting screw before cutting. It is responsible for balancing the engraver for a smooth, even cut. Drilled anchor holes in the concrete can be filled with crack filler or just left. It is a good idea to snap all lines prior to cutting. This allows you to check that the layout looks good.

Mark the center pivot base with an arrow pointing to a screw hole. Always anchor the center pivot, starting with that hole first. Also, keep a mental or written note of the direction this arrow is pointing. This will allow you to exactly reposition the center pivot if it is necessary to remove it before engraving operations are completed.

The center pivot’s star knob secures and tightens the connecting bar to the center pivot. If the star knob is not tight, it will cause a sloppy, ugly line. When cutting short cuts, a loose center pivot star knob will produce over cuts.

Connecting bar screws are not standard screws. Use of another type of screw will cause a loose fit between the bars, resulting in missed cuts. When making brick cuts, the pointers are designed to be over the row you are supposed to be pointing at. If your pointer isn’t lining up right, then the cut probably won’t either.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.

Decorative Concrete Engraving | Cutting Linear Bricks | Move The Rail

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This is a continuation (Part 11) of an introduction to the Super Compact — including it’s capabilities.

In this video, you learn how to move the rail for continuing a course of bricks in a linear brick pattern using the Super Compact Cobra and a tracking system.

This is part 16 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

After cutting is completed, in the first area, relocate the linear rail to the second location.

Move the rail in an increment of four inches, move the engraver along the rail, check that the blade is aligned with the groove, and anchor each rail standoff.

The closest cut the engraver can make to the linear rail is 15 and a half inches. The connecting bar is drilled at 4 inch intervals. Therefore, when determining where to mount the rail, use measurements that are multiples of 4, then add 15 and a half inches to that measurement to mount the linear rail.

To cut a soldier-course brick border, first engrave the long border cuts with the super compact running track free, then snap a chalk line parallel to the border cut, 11 and a half inches out. Place the linear track base along the snap-chalk line. The round linear guide rail is set closest to the line.

Slide the linear carriage onto the rail, with the indexing hole oriented closest to the engraver. Allowing the linear carriage to run off the rail’s end will damage the bearings. Use the included collars to safety the carriage.

Adjust the primary connecting bar’s stroke length for the bricks being cut. Attach the rigid pointer system to the plunger block. Use the 4 inch pointer for soldier course brick cuts and the 6 inch or 12 inch pointers for tile or stone cuts.

To hold the engraver in place, through each cut cycle, chock, block, or wedge the linear carriage with your toes. Begin the brick cutting within the mitered corner area. Be sure to undercut these lines. Remember, it is easier to touch up an undercut than repair an over cut.

Make the first cut, then use the four inch pointer to measure the next brick cut. Using the four inch pointer, continue cutting bricks along the border. Slide the linear base along the chalk line to the next section and continue cutting bricks.

Decorative Concrete Engraving | Cutting Linear Bricks | 2nd Course & Beyond

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This is a continuation (Part 10) of an introduction to the Super Compact — including it’s capabilities.

In this video, you learn to cut the 2nd & 3rd course of bricks in a linear brick pattern using the Super Compact Cobra and a tracking system.

This is part 15 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

When engraving straight bricks on a large area, the head joints can have a tendency to drift. Factors that cause a drift can be: a pointer that is slightly off, or if the operator views the pointer from differing angles. If the pointer happened to be off 1 16th of an inch, after 16 rows, your head joints would be off by one inch.

To avoid the drift, after engraving the first row of bricks, snap parallel chalk lines down the length of the slab. These lines should serve as a good reference to the proper cut of every second row. Make your cuts on chalk lines on odd numbered rows to minimize drift. This will keep your head joints lined up nicely and give a clean look to your straight bricks.

To cut the second brick course, index the engraver towards the linear rail to set the engraver up for the second row. Move the pointer flag to the second pointer and aim the second pointer at the first course.

To cut the third brick course, index the engraver in toward the rail. Pin it. Snug the knobs. The head cuts of the third course of bricks are centered on the first course. Aim the center pointer at the grout lines on the first row. Notice that all pointers, so far, have aimed at the cuts in row number one.

On the fourth and consecutive courses, aim the center pointer at the grooves that are two courses away from the row being cut.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.

Decorative Concrete Engraving | Cutting Linear Bricks | 1st Course

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This is a continuation (Part 9) of an introduction to the Super Compact — including it’s capabilities.

In this video, you learn to cut the 1st course of bricks in a linear brick pattern using the Super Compact Cobra and a tracking system.

This is part 14 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Let’s look at the linear carriage. Orient the T pin hole so it is closest to the engraver. The collars prevent the carriage from sliding off the ends of the rail and damaging the bearings. Insert the primary connecting bar into the carriage. Attach the engraver to the primary connecting bar. Lift the connecting bar stabilizer wheels about 1/8th of an inch off the concrete and then tighten the star knob. Install the clamp lock.

Indexing the primary connecting bar to cut the first long cut, insert the T pin and tighten the star knobs. Engrave the first long bed line. After the first line is engraved, remove the T pin, loosen the star knobs, and index to the next hole. Reinsert the T pin and tighten the star knobs. Engrave the next line. Repeat the process until the section of long lines are engraved.

As needed, add connecting bars to extend the reach of the super compact. Secure the connecting bar using the specifically designed connecting bar screws. Tighten the screws snuggly to prevent a loose connection which can cause ugly lines.

The recommended maximum connecting bar extension for straight linear brick patterns is 12 feet. Extending farther than the recommended length can cause bowed lines due to the lag and movement between the engraver and the linear carriage.

Remove the clamp lock and turn the engraver 90 degrees and reattach the primary connecting bar. Check the stroke length for short cuts. Adjust for a four inch cut, then attach the rigid pointer system to the engraver. Index the primary connecting bar to the row of bricks that is furthest away from the linear rail.

To cut the first brick course, first move the engraver to the far right side of the cutting area. Clip on the pointer flag. Align the first row pointer, which is 12 inches from the blade, to the edge of the area and make the first cut.

Move the engraver sideways and align the pointer over the cut line and make the next cut. Repeat until this row is complete.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.