Sam was relieved to find out the problem wasn’t serious and the solution was easy.

So, what caused the problem, and what should you do if you find yourself in Sam’s situation?

According to Chris Mirabal, our Senior Tech Advisor, the problem is generally caused by water droplets from a sprinkler or irrigation system landing on the concrete. As moisture from the droplets evaporates, a mineral deposit is left behind in the form of white spots.

Is the problem going to rear its ugly head every time it rains?

No, we don’t see the same effect from rainwater since it is “soft” and doesn’t become “hard” until it picks up calcium or magnesium ions as it passes through the soil and bedrock. Groundwater is the culprit.

To fix the problem:

1.  Mix 1 part white vinegar to 1½ parts water in a pump-up sprayer.
2. Wet down a workable area with the vinegar/water solution and scrub. (The vinegar solution can kill adjacent grass, so use it carefully.)
3. Pressure wash.
4. Blow dry the area with a high-power leaf blower. (Since you’re using “hard” water from the water supply to power wash, it’s important to avoid allowing the wash water to dry, thus create new spots.)

Once you’re finished, take time to talk with your customer about adjusting the sprinkler system so that it doesn’t spray the concrete.  Not only will he avoid the problem of mineral deposits, he will also reduce his water costs while protecting water as a natural resource by using it more efficiently. That’s a win-win for everybody.

The importance of how thick Inside Epoxy should be applied  in the decorative concrete process came up recently.

The concrete surface texture is a factor that you can’t control, but have to work with.

Is the concrete surface porous or tight? A porous surface will need a thicker application of epoxy since the pores will fill with epoxy first.

While the Inside Epoxy specs give a range of coverage for each kit, the condition of the concrete and the amount of epoxy used will affect that range.

The applied, finished epoxy should be the thickness of a butter knife which normally takes two applications, each of which will need to cure for seven days.

Applying too little epoxy can lead to flaws in the surface; too much epoxy is just expensive.

So, the correct amount of epoxy on a finished floor is the thickness of a butter knife.

Note: It’s probably best not to carry around a butter knife to measure the epoxy thickness of your customers flooring… they’ll look at you funny and may not give you referrals.  Simply use this knowledge as a guide.

At a building project, concrete is on the scene early, if not first, and endures a lot of rough treatment from the finishing that follows. Since you are responsible for the concrete that will be stained and engraved, your first thought is to protect it from gouges, paint, oils, and more.

Maybe you’re thinking you should tape down a protective cover of some sort?

Don’t use tape!

Using tape on concrete that is stained or will be stained is an absolute no-no. Don’t use it for masking purposes or anything else. Why not?

The glue that makes tape stick will react with new, unstained concrete, changing the color and texture. The concrete will then ‘take’ the stain differently in the places where the tape was stuck down and the places where there was no tape. Getting a good stain color match is going to be hard.

Tape is nasty on stained and sealed concrete because too often, when the tape is removed, it pulls sealer off and can pull some of the stain as well.

It’s not fair to tell you about the problems tape can cause without giving you different solutions to protect your concrete.

The first way to protect new concrete is to let it cure for 30 days before doing any other building procedures. Then, wait until the framing is up.

Spread a 10 mil plastic sheet out on the floor and roll the edges, like a hem.

Now, you can tape…put duct tape on the rolled edge of the plastic to make it sturdy enough to hold staples. Then, staple the plastic to the base plate of the framing, putting the staples through the rolled, taped edge of the plastic.

Last, place cardboard down on the plastic sheet. The cardboard will protect the plastic from sharp tools and help to keep workers from slipping on the plastic sheeting.

Remember that you can contact our senior tech adviser, Chris with questions about decorative concrete engraving at 1-800-884-2114 or email him at Chris@Engrave-A-Crete.com

Or if you were ever wanting to know the answer to that question yourself, we now have listed on our main site a set of specs.

Visit What is Decorative Concrete Engraving to get the dry boring details of exactly, specifically, what it is that we are promoting and manufacturing for.

Here is a quote about Engrave-A-Crete from the Sydney, Australia newspaper, the Blacktown City Sun.

“INNOVATION seldom goes hand in hand with practicality, sophistication usually sits uncomfortably with durability and the best hardly ever costs the least.”

Nicely said and it continues…

“However, an extraordinary concept has recently been introduced to the homemaker’s market, a revolutionary new process called Engrave-A-Crete® which can turn the common and all-too-boring looking cement driveway, outdoor patio, garage floor, indoor cement slab, garden path and pool contour into an attractive design feature.”

Read what some of our customers have to say about their decorative concrete engraving businesses by reading the Engrave-A-Crete Success Stories.

Read what our students have to say about our Discovery & Training Seminars.